France 2012 - Besançon + Saint Vit + Dole

le 29 octobre

At last Habibi and I had the chance to sleep in a little bit and recuperate from the activity of the previous two days (eating).  We awoke around 8 a.m., went on a light jog around the picturesque town of Besançon, and picked up a few items for breakfast.

Around 12:30 p.m., we returned to my former host family's home in Saint Vit to see their daughter, Hombeline (with whom I had become very close while living with them several years ago), her boyfriend, Alexandre and their dog, Gaspard.

Bernard, Agnès, Hombeline, Alexandre

Gaspard and Hombeline

Hombeline and Alex work together at a gourmet restaurant in Nantua, where Alex is a sous-chef.  For the fourth time in less than three days, we were privileged enough to be guests in the home of excellent hosts and chefs.  Alex gracefully "whipped up" an exquisite lunch that we would never have been able to afford had we dined out.  Come to think of it, all of our major meals up to this point had been multi-course and gourmet quality...and completely free.  As I consider the marvelously rich and flavorful dishes we gobbled up with delight, I realize how blessed we have been to have had even better company.  All throughout the past few days, we have met and seen friendly, kind, and generous people with gracious hearts.  God is good because, not only has He protected us by keeping us safe in all our travels, but He has put some of His most magnificent creations in our paths.

Tomorrow, we will drive to the nearby city of Dole to meet with my friend Solange.  We will tour Dole in the morning, spend the afternoon in Besançon and have lunch at a restaurant that specializes in local cuisine.  I can hardly wait for the blessings of a new day!

Dinner out after we returned home from the Rivoals' house:
 kebab-frites (think gyros with French fries) from a
legitimate kebab stand that I used to frequent.
Afterwards, faro, my favorite cider-y beer
at a fantastic little beer joint.

le 30 octobre

On Tuesday morning, Habibi and I drove from Besançon to Dole to meet with my friend Solange.  Although both Besançon and Dole are in the same region (La Franche-Comté), they are in separate but neighboring districts:  Le Doubs and Le Jura, respectively.

After spending the morning on a personal and private guided tour (Solange is from Dole), we drove back to Besançon for lunch at restaurant located in a stone-walled basement that served mouth-watering local cuisine.

Au Vieux Comtois, the restaurant boasting local fare

Both cities are historically significant.  While Dole is the birthplace of Louis Pasteur (creator of pasteurization of dairy products which, ironically enough, is not required by law in France the way it is in the United States); Besançon hosted the births of Victor Hugo (author of such books as The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Misérables) and the Lumière brothers (history's earliest filmmakers).  Each city has charmingly anecdotal symbols displayed on small arrows affixed to the ground, marking pathways to the historic Roman, Medieval and 17th century ruins.

The symbol of Dole is a perched cat or  

Chat Perché while Besançon proudly 

showcases its legendary clocks.

The beautiful city of Dole

Gothic architecture inside the cathedral in Dole

A monument marking the Roman ruins in Besançon

Ancient Roman pillars still remain in Besançon

The 17th Century citadelle in Besançon
(a fortress constructed under Louis XIV)
Well worth the climb up the steep stairs!

Luckily for us, Solange has a Master's degree in history and teaches at a high school in another nearby town.  She offered interesting explanations -made relevant by her local perspective- to everything we saw.  Most importantly, though, she is positively delightful.

Just before indulging me in a visit to my old dorms, Habibi and Solange accompanied me to a local, used bookstore (où on vend les livres d'occasion) of which I have fond memories.  We found the salesman to be not only helpful, but friendly, witty, and more than willing to take our pictures.

After stopping at an old haunt for the next morning's breakfast (more pain au chocolat, of course!), Habibi and I drove Solange back to Dole where we had dinner in a fun little joint called La Pataterie (or, "The Tatery," as every menu item incorporated some kind of potato).

Although the interior decor of this French chain would remind any American of an Applebee's or Chili's, the absence of "pieces of flair" and the waiter's offer of an apéritif or post-dinner café clearly indicates that you are in France.  The day that Carlos O'Kelly's serves cognac as a digestif is the day that I will revoke any comments I've ever made about American chain restaurants.

Habibi's burger, sandwiched between two hash brown patties
...with a side of two more hash browns

My baked potato loaded with veggies and a side salad

Solange with a loaded baked potato and a salad

At the end of the evening, we dropped Solange off at home and returned to Besançon to prepare for the following day's drive to Bordeaux.  I will continue to miss Besançon and La Franche-Comté, but find consolation in the fact that I know we will return.